Another way to put veneers around the points is to miter them at a 45 degree angle. This can be done with a router, milling machine, or even a table saw.
Leon Sly of Sly's Custom Cues uses one of Pete Tonkin's jigs to cut his on a desktop mill with a double-angle cutter. Pete's jig also let you square the point stock, but he's busy building cues and is no longer in the jig-building business.
Murray Tucker of Tucker Cue Works uses a similar fixture to hold the veneer for the cut.
Here's a great overview of the process from Bob Dzuricky of http://dzcues.com/
First the veneer stack is glued together and pressed using a book press, hydraulic press, or makeshift press using C-clamps, etc.
Once that's done, let's check out Bob's photos. Thanks to ScottR for the descriptions-
The sheet of glued veneers
The sheet being cut down the middle of its length with a 90 degree bit
After being cut, all of the veneer layers show at a 45 degree angle (1/2 of the 90)
Another shot of the two strips with their 45 degree edges
Two strips, glued together with their 45 degree faces against each other, being held in the resulting 90 degree V with painters tape
The end view of the glued V
after the tape is removed and ready to inlay into the forearm V-groove
The result must be a perfectly square set of veneers. If not, the veneers will show a gap at the miter after turning down the cue. Here's Bob checking a set with an engineer's square.
This sequence shows how these 90 degree square pieces make pointy points. It is a combination of the geometry of the V-groove being deeper at the handle end and the forearm tapered smaller at the joint end.
Some forearms with 90 degree v-grooves cut
The backend (a-joint, handle end) of a forearm with the V-shaped veneers sitting in the 90 degree V-grooves, with the 90 degree point wood sitting in the V-shaped veneers
Same as the previous picture, but from the joint end of the forearm
The end result, after you cut off the excess point material, taper the forearm and face the backend
Veneers can be used in Short-spliced, Full-spliced, or butterfly spliced cues (and any combination thereof).
Any number of glues can be used for this operation. Wood Glue, Epoxy and Polyurethane Glue have been used for this. It is best to seal the veneer using a thin coat of epoxy or wood hardener to help prevent the dye from re-activating. A little dye in the squeeze-out is normal.
Hopefully these pages will give you some ideas!